How the CPHFW 2023 anchors sustainability in the DNA of fashion labels and the entire fashion ecosystem in the long term
Source & Copyright by Ganni
Author: House of Eden
- CPHFW 2023 tightens minimum sustainability standards
- From 31.01. The autumn/winter season was presented until February 03.02.2023rd, XNUMX, subject to holistic sustainability
- Brands must meet requirements in 6 sustainable focus areas to be allowed to show their collection
Due to the unique sustainable commitment of Copenhagen Fashion Week, it is now a jour fixe for the international audience of the fashion world. Unlike other fashion weeks, not only the launch of trend-setting collections but also sustainable innovations that are intended to positively influence the future of fashion are anticipated. The CPHFW clearly stands for creative activism and for starting movements that break rigid structures. And that's exactly what they have Fashion Week as an agenda-setting platform and the participating brands demonstrated as sustainable voices.
Status update: Here's the 2020-2022 Sustainability Action Plan
Since the launch of its 2020-2022 Sustainability Action Plan, Copenhagen Fashion Week has proven that it is pursuing a consistent strategy when it comes to sustainability. The overall goal is not only to reduce the climate impact, resource consumption and waste generation of the event, but also to accelerate the sustainability efforts of the participating brands. But how can a biannual fashion week play such a continuously influential role in the day-to-day operations of the broader fashion ecosystem?
By defining strict sustainability requirements as a prerequisite for participation. The increasing social and political relevance of the CPHFW positions it as a trend-setting authority alongside the established Big 5 fashion weeks. As a model that offers an answer to the new values and needs of consumers, other stakeholders and shareholders. Participation in it is therefore a must in order to remain attractive and competitive in the future. The requirements are intended to motivate organizations and brands to become leaders in the field of sustainability and to continuously drive change.
Make-or-Break: The Sustainability Minimum Standards of the CPHFW 2023
Starting with this year's autumn/winter season of Copenhagen Fashion Week, this plan will be implemented even more consistently. To be more precise: Participating brands have to meet even stricter minimum standards, the one holistic value chain perspective include. These comprise 18 action points from six priority areas:
- Strategic guidelines - eg implementation of sustainability and compliance with international human rights standards
- Design - e.g. Second-Life for fabric samples
- Smart choice of materials - eg At least 50% of the new collection must be certified, upcycled, made from sustainable or deadstock materials be made
- Working conditions - e.g. compliance with international Supply Chain Policies and standards and close cooperation with suppliers
- Consumer engagement - e.g. using recycled or reusable packaging alternatives instead of single use plastic in store or when ordering online
- Fashion shows - Stage design and show production must be waste-free
In addition to these minimum standards, the brands receive 58 further recommendations intended to encourage even more sustainable actions and must answer a questionnaire to ensure insights into the current status of their sustainability efforts. Only those who follow a holistic strategy and score points in all focus areas are eligible to participate.
What other fashion brands can core from Key Nordic Talent Ganni
Ganni's runway clearly indicated that CPHFW's plan was working. And brands are motivated to improve their environmental efforts year over year. The label’s current autumn/winter collection 2023 was classified as 100% “responsible”. That's a notable improvement compared to two years ago when it was just over 70%.
Source & Copyright by Ganni / CPHFW AW 2023
Symbolic of this development: The new Ganni collection was inspired by the transformation process (metamorphosis) that butterflies go through in the course of their lives. Ganni also wants to evolve and become something beautiful. The beauty lies in harmony with nature. Means: The label translated the transformation process into its collection by revising some of the most popular models and integrating new sustainability-oriented innovations into the production. As one of the most internationally hyped Scandi brands, Ganni sets new standards for other brands in this way.
CPHFW 2023 x Zalando: Stamm wins Sustainability Award
Also in the name of sustainability and one of the most longed-for happenings of the CPHFW: the presentation of the Zalando Sustainability Awards. A prize that recognizes the outstanding sustainable commitment of a brand. With a holistic approach to material selection, production processes, technical and innovative solutions, and transparency in the supply chain. In addition to the title and 20.000 euros in prize money, the winning label also has the opportunity to Capsule Collection with Zalando to design. In other words: the global player helps a sustainable label to gain incomparable international visibility in order to scale its slow fashion. And at the same time benefits from the exchange of knowledge to accelerate its own sustainable transformation.
Source & Copyright by Stamm / CPHFW AW 2023
This year, the Danish label Stamm won the award. The reason for this success is the use of sustainable materials and the impressive craftsmanship of the label. The collaborative capsule should also be designed with innovative design solutions in terms of materials, production processes, technologies and traceability.
Buzz topic leather alternatives
Lena Sophie Röper, Director of Design & Luxury at Zalando, describes the real highlight of Stamm's Winning Collection as "the embroidery on the leather styles". And thus addresses one of the buzz topics of the CPHFW 2023: leather. after the fur question dominated the discourse of Fashion Week 2022, it is now about leather, its origins and approaches to rethinking the material.
Ganni showed how it's done by sending bags made from Ohokin, a leather alternative made from orange and cactus by-products and recycled plastic, onto the runway. On the other hand, Samesoe Samsoe presented an alternative to fruit leather and showed leather jackets made of deadstock as well as leather with a certificate from the non-profit organization Leather Working Group (LWG). Promising approaches that not only meet the minimum standards of the CPHFW, but also set new rules for next season's collections.
With the fall/winter collection, CPHFW has once again proven that their Sustainability Action Plan is more than lip service. Unlike other fashion weeks, it does not treat sustainability as a niche buzzword that is only dealt with in the cosmos of isolated labels. It sets it as a requirement for all labels. In this way, it empowers brands in their sustainability efforts, strengthens the international discourse and establishes sustainability as a must in a holistic sense.